Friday, 6 June 2014

Instituto Marangoni at Graduate Fashion Week

The private Italian school of fashion and design opened Graduate Fashion Week, and it was most certainly a hard one to follow. Here are the designers and their collections. 

Kanyinsola Onalaja 

A striking collection of hot, spicy reds; you could almost feel the heat. Patchwork and pleated skirts, open knits, and crimped fur made this collection a textural haven. Boxy jumpers and coats with sleek, streamlined bottoms created silhouettes reminiscent of the 80s. 

Juanita Huber Millett

 A collection of pure elegance - tops and dresses of loose draped fabric in metallic hues mimicing linked chains were the textured stars. The coupling of glossy and matte fabrics were definitely the central focus of this collection, with gold MC Hammer pants toned down by a flat matte woolen coat. The central piece of the collection for me was the sleek navy jumpsuit with metallic panels. This is a collection that is completely wearable, the style of which I can see featuring strongly com
e A/W 14

Jill Melina Zimmerman

Reds, oranges and blacks ruled this collection of long streamlined silhouettes. Slogan and bold lettering worked to create a sporty, urban feel with summer vibes. 

Hannah George

This was one of my favorites of the entire show, mainly because of the oil slick inserts. We've had an entire winter of metallic and leather inserts, and  I love the slight yet dramatic oil slick twist. A collection inspired by exoskeleton and endoskeleton, the inserts accompanied by the caged, oversized shoulders are very reminiscent of beetles. I particularly love the oil slick Sowester coat. The jewel tones are rich and contrast well with the delicate light blue beading.

Cleveland Covington

A collection of earthy hues, a strong focus was given to large, oversized waterfall reveres. Deep, low necklines and subtly flared hems make for an extremely elegant A/W collection. 

Alina Makarenko

Dramatic. That's what really came to mind when watching this particular collection, and in both senses of the word. Not only was it jaw droppingly stunning, but would not look out of place in a period drama. Late Edwardian silhouettes were paired with modern, black graphic slashes, whilst every heel was lined with a thin trickling of blood, bringing a macabre edge to the collection. Each outfit was a pairing of contrasting hues such as grey and purple, or peach and red. The center piece; a dress made entirely of tiny peach pleats was the show stopper, with a bright red inner lining that flashed through the jagged hem. 

Alexandra Henkes

Inspired by the notion of nature's existence, waste culture and modern society, this is a collection of distressed fabrics and autumnal hues. PVC layering strongly contrasts with the rough textures, whilst the goggles add a steampunk element. 

Marika Grasso

One of the many incredible menswear collections of the week, Marika Grasso puts an urban twist on the typical pin-stripe suit with primal prints, whilst transforming Xhose tribe blankets into oversized cardigans and scarves. I instantly thought of Tinie Tempah, who is renowned for his love of urban style tailoring and prints. 

Mariam Chumburidze

There were a lot of collections that focused specifically on sportswear, but ski-wear, not so many. I love how this is a collection that can be dissected and worn either off or on the slopes. The simplistic orange, grey and white color palette contributed to the futuristic feel of the collection. High necklines were making appearances in so many collections, and ski-wear was no exception, creating long, square silhouettes. The slogan and paint splatter motifs helped to add an urban and ready-to-wear element to the collection. 

Louise Irene Persson

A collection highly inspired by the gothic ninja menswear trend, a simple palette of blacks, greys and whites took center stage. The extreme layering creates a deconstructed look, whilst the lack of color keeps it controlled and masculine. 

Lisa Kidd

Inspired by classic fairy tales, Lisa Kidd cleverly turns her models into life-size marionettes and teddy bears with sugary pastel jumpsuits and voluminous dresses. Hidden structures give the impression of wildlife creatures lifting the garments in true Snow White style. 

Lihn Thuy Pham

Named 'The Exploding Body' , this collection's silhouettes dramatically fan outward with the use of concertina pleating in red and black. The simplistic and limited color palette leaves room for the designer to explore and experiment with 3d texture as well as body imagery prints eg breasts that are highlighted on selected garments. 

Karle Erratzi De Miguel

A very romantic collection that features crumpled textures and 3d florals. Delicate hues of white and acid wash lilac create a summery yet slightly grungy edge to the collection.