University of East London followed Instituto Marangoni on the Sataurday of Graduate Fashion Week, and featured some of my favorite collections of the entire event. So without further ado, here they are:
This collection earned itself a finalist place at the Graduate Fashion Week Awards Show. Inspired by youth culture, oversized silhouettes and embroidery worked to create a collection packed full of teddy-bear motifs. This childlike quality was contrasted with the sporty elements of towelling and puffer jackets.
A refreshing collection with a citrus palette, Alexandra Huxtable looped yellow and green belts through sea green and beige coats and dresses which featured scissor motifs and gingham check.
Using a bare palette of white and cream, Chloe Taylor was able to focus purely on 3D drapes and layering by folding material around metal loops to create a structural silhouette. The effect was a clever manipulation of the way the fabric moved and flowed as the models walked. A truly stunning collection.
Crisp whites owned this collection, with draped silks, copper and silver washers and arm bangles bringing a Grecian air to the runway. This quite elegant aesthetic was given an urban twist in the pairing of sports socks and heels, and the added accessory of a clear plastic clutch bag.
A collection so lightweight I can imagine it must have felt like wearing nothing at all. Loose dresses, straight cut skirts and voluminous jumpsuits in a variety of sheer fabrics were adorned with a range of colourful and monochrome graphic check prints.
A gorgeous display of carpet bag florals and jacquard tapestry motifs featuring on a base of cream and white. Parachute and oversized silhouettes bring a modern feel to the traditional patterns and fabrics.
A mixture of sports luxe and street wear, this collection combined cosmic galaxy prints with 90s bomber jackets and hoodies to create a casual retro look.
Matte vs Metallic was the main focus of this menswear collection, with geometric metallic lines snaking squares and rectangles across matte black and white tunics and coats.
The cocktail of tiered pleats, candy stripes, and shaggy silhouettes brought a vivid image of ragdolls to mind. Exaggerated, thick stitching on yellow, red and cream denim created a raggedy texture, whilst drop waist pinafores added a childish element.
Keishin Hoshiko Barrett
Also receiving a finalist place at the Graduate Fashion Week Awards Show, this collection was a clever mix of sport luxe fabrics, geometric prints, vibrant neons and parachute silhouettes which work to make a refreshing bright collection with a zesty vibe.
For this collection, Kim Stevenson pulled out every textural skill in her arsenal. Ripping, stitching, gathering and embroidering created a textural masterpiece. The patchwork qualities were reminiscent of Peruvian garments, and the earthy, neutral tones with flashes of red and blue brings a bohemian feel to each garment.
One of the only men’s outdoor collections, Kirstie Lee-Eells created a sporty urban nomad look. A palette of fluorescent orange, dark greys and red appeared on fleece, wool and PVC. A contrast in textures alongside extremely high necks made for unusual layering styles and silhouettes.
This collection blew me away. The striking use of colour teamed with the precise layering of hair created a visionary spectacle like no other. The use of hair made the garments come alive as the models moved along the catwalk, and the African inspired colour palette was sharp and fresh. Square shoulders and sleek lines packed the collection full of attitude.
Sports luxe was rife at Graduate Fashion Week, and for that particular style Leanne Beckford’s collection was my favourite. Androgynous black, navy and slate boiler suits were accessorized with oversized bobble hats and coats along with flashing contrasts of fluorescent yellow from sandals and bikini straps. A sporty yet sophisticated collection.
Candy colours and playful silhouettes made this collection a sweet treat for the eyes. Iridescent pinks and purples as well as silvers contrasted with matte fluorescents whilst rah-rah skirts and jelly sandals bring an 80s vibe to every look.
Bohemian in style, this peaches and cream collection was the epitome of textural elegance. Cascading chiffon and frayed tassels flowed in ways reminiscent of fine tendrils.
Nicole Da Silva
This collection was a delicate display of feminine shades and fabrics. Creams, lilacs, blacks and greys were teamed with 3d florals, feathers and soft, sheer fabric to create gracefully textured garments that exudes summer.
A simplistic base palette in this collection has allowed Peter Kyaw to experiment with lines, shape, and silhouette. Red and pink Tron style lines contour the shape of the models whilst also subverting the rules surrounding form with 3D effect.
What better way to close the UEL’s show than with a Gothic collection straight out of a Disney villain’s wardrobe. Black ruled the runway, with macabre tiered dresses made of tulle creating textured fairytale silhouettes. Accessories took center stage however, with biker boots entwined in black roses, giant spiked crowns and headpieces, and ghostly capes.